2021 Tilt-Top Stand

As with most who begin dabbling in woodworking, you think "wouldn't it be nice to have ..." more tools in your workshop. Well, that's my situation. A friend mentioned that their neighbor was wanting to clean out their basement of her deceased husband's woodworking "stuff". Well, after checking out what was there, and the great prices, I decided it was time to add more tools to my garage shop. However, with the only space available in my garage being one wall, I had to figure a way to add these new tools and make them accessible. 

After hours of perusing Pinterest, YouTube, and Facebook Woodworking Groups, I decided it was time to build a Tilt-Top Tool Stand. This concept allows me to mount a different tool on either side of the tilt table. To use either, I simply flip the table 180 degrees.

 I found several designs to consider, but decided to open up my SketchUp Make 2017 CAD program and design my own version. 

Since I am still "learning" the woodworking trade, this would be another project of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood (which is forgiving about inaccurate cuts!).

Design

Here is the iso view from my CAD model. This concept essentially is a base frame with vertical supports for holding the tilt table. The tilt table pivots/rotates using a piece of black steel pipe, and has casters for mobility. Also, the tilt table has (4) eye bolts with star knobs, which can hold the tilt table portion in a horizontal position.


This CAD model, I decided to create separate pieces with dimensions, so it would be easy to fabricate. Here's those views:

Base components:

Vertical Supports (shows 2 - need two of each):

Tilt Table:

Other components:
(4) - 3" casters were mounted to the base using 5/16"  X 1" Lag Screws 
(4) - 0.250" x 1-1/4" Flat Washers (for star knob and eye bolt assembly)
(4) - #10 x 3-1/4" long Deck Screws (pivot for eye bolts)
(Deck Screws used to fasten 2x4's together and plywood to 2x4's)

Materials:

7 - 2x4 - 72" (I purchased one extra 2x4, just in case I needed to redo something)
3 - 24"x48" - 3/4" plywood (one for base and 2 for the two sides of the tilt table)
1 - 3/4" - 36" ID Black Steel Pipe 
4 - 3" Casters (I purchased the type with brakes)

Fabrication:

First, I cut out all the 2x4's, using a Miter/chop saw. Then, the base was assembled, using a combination of Kreg Pocket Hole Screws (fastening the vertical supports to the cross braces), and #10 x 2-1/2"deck screws (fastening the vertical supports to the base). 

It was at this point I realized I had NOT cut the slots out in the tilt top frame for the eye bolts. Using a circular saw, I added the slots. (Editor's note: it would be MUCH easier to add these slots in the individual pieces BEFORE assembling the tilt top frame). The slots weren't the prettiest, and I did have to reposition a couple of the 2-1/2" deck screws to miss the slot area. But in the end, they worked as planned.

Next, 1" diameter holes will drilled for the black steel pipe pivot. I ended up having to "work the" holes to open them up slightly to get the pipe thru and align the holes on the upper support pieces. 

Next, I began assembling the tilt top. For this, the 2x4's were attached with more #10 x 2-1/2" deck screws. I then added the pivot holes for the pipe to pass thru.

The next step was to assemble the pivot pipe thru the tilt top and the support base. With a little more "hole modifying", I was able to pass the pipe thru both supports and the tilt top. Despite a slight misalignment of the pieces, the tilt top indeed pivoted on the pipe!

I cut out 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood to mount on either side of the tilt top frame, and attached them using #8 x 1-1/4" deck screws (I put 5 on each side, knowing the equipment I would be attaching to the table tops could be heavy). 

I then assembled the 1/4"x4" long eye bolts, using #10x3-1/4" long deck screws at the pivot shaft for the eye bolts. I then added a 1-1/4" OD washer (to provide a larger surface to tighten down on) and star knob to each of the 4 eye bolts.

I mounted a couple pieces of 2x4 (with a clearance hole drilled ~ 1" deep) on the upper cross support to keep the pivot pipe from "walking" in the pivot holes.

Next, I flipped the assembly over to mount the 3" caster wheels. I drilled out pilot holes for the lag screws, only using 3 of the 4 mounting holes. I debated about putting in pieces of 2x4's in each corner to fasten the 4th mounting hole, but figured I try it out with only 3. I could always add that later.

Finally, it was time to install the last piece of 3/4" plywood to the base. This required notching out corners where the 2x4 vertical support pieces were fastened to the base frame. This was done using a "good ol' handsaw". 

Here is the final product:




Since I haven't picked up the equipment that will be mounted to this stand, I can't show you the tilt top in action. However, I know this will be perfect for mounting my dual sander and scroll saw on one side, and a planer on the other. 

Lessons Learned:

This is the 3rd workbench/table I have constructed since beginning my woodworking journey. As expected, I had some missteps and learned more about using the tools of woodworking. Here are some of them:
  • Make sure that all cuts/holes are completed BEFORE beginning assembly
  • When cutting duplicate pieces, the accuracy will be improved if you set up fixturing to set the cut distance rather than trying to mark each piece and cut to those markings
  • Before installing screws, double check to see that there are not other screws or holes going in those areas. I had to relocate a couple when I added toe slots for the eye bolts
  • Think about the machines you will mount. It will make a difference on the support height used. 
Here's a PDF (converted to image) of the project:















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